Palermo
Palermo’s long chronicle of dominations can not be summed up in a few lines. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Swabian, Angevins, Aragonese, Spanish, the House of Savoy, Austrians and Bourbons followed each other over centuries of domination, occupation and colonization. To say nothing of Genoa, Amalfi and Pisa, that colonized the city as well. Every settler gave their contribution leaving indelible traces of their time in churches, roads or institutions.
Palermo is a city so rich in culture and history, that it is impossible to take in it in a few days. Once accepted this premise, you can visit the city without sense of guilty, yielding to its romantic appeal and letting its beauty seep into your bones. Wherever you choose to go, be sure that it is very easy to find your bearings in Palermo.
There are a large number of landmarks (architectural and natural beauties such as the Monte Pellegrino or the coast), which enable you to know where you are in every moment. First and foremost Piazza Vigliena, better known as Quattro Canti Square, dating back to late XVII century. It lies in the core of the city, where the two main roads join and form a perfect cross: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with Porta Felice and Porta Nuova on either outskirts, and the perpendicular Via Maqueda (after the Spanish viceroy who designed it). Created by demolishing the ancient medieval suburbs, the square cut the city in four parts, known as “mandamenti” (Castellammare, Kalsa, Albergheria and Capo), which still keep their ancient essence intact now.
In the second half of the 1900 the building speculation changed the city layout by promoting the urban development towards the north, up to the edges of the mountain. The resulting new Palermo gained new areas, but worsened the conditions of the degraded historical quarters. The scars on the landscape were deep and evident, although cancelled by the wind of changes which blows throughout the island. Now signs of renovation and restoration are all around, with activity focused on the historical center and on the area near the waterfront, completely neglected until the current time. A paradox, certainly, when one considers that the city was once renowned for its safe landing-place and therefore it was named “Panormus”, that is all port. A further positive element is the recent rediscovering of the Passeggiata (strolling) along the promenade, an ancient habit dating back to late 1500.
Nevertheless the very heart of the city is still beating in the markets and in the crowded streets, which maintain their essence in spite of the wave of changes the city underwent. It is not a case that the liveliest markets in the city, Vucciria, Ballarò and the Capo markets, are of Arabian origins: they are multiethnic by tradition, and not by fashion. They are the symbol of the city, marked by a very strong tradition deep-rooted in all those concerning trading and meeting among different cultures. This inestimable wealth is wonderfully expressed in the well-known heritage of scents and flavors that is Sicilian cuisine. The sweet-and-sour flavor marking a large number of traditional recipes (caponata, pasta with sardines), can be considered the most intense expression of the vivid harmonious contrasts of this city. Such a flavor can not leave you cold.
Mondello
It is difficult to believe that the sea resort Mondello and its renowned promenade used to be a malarial marshland until the late 1800. The land was reclaimed by an Italian-Belgian company in 1911, thus allowing the creation of the most renowned sea resort in Europe, which competed even with the Côte D’Azur in the early 1900.
Currently not only elegant liberty style villas gives on to Mondello’s main avenues (Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia and via Regina Elena), but also delicious buildings marked by eclectic architectural styles, which change to some extent the belle époque atmosphere of the centre. In the winter and in the spring, when the seaside is clear of cabanas, Mondello has many to offer. It turns out to be the ideal setting for strolls along the promenade, which inevitably end with a stop to eat some Sicilian culinary specialties. The offer is incredibly varied: fish, fried specialties, bakery’s products, pastries and ice creams. Every shop has always a comfortable corner with tables and chairs for diners on the run. In the summer Mondello teems with life. In the daytime the beach is full with people lying in the sun, at night the resort hosts culture events. The Windsurf World Festival May 2007 is worth mentioning.
Monreale
The historical centre of Monreale, dating back to late Middle Ages and centered in the Benedictine Abbey owes much to the Norman King William II, Roger II’s grandson. According to a legend in 1711 the Madonna appeared to him in a dream helping him build a dome which was to be so grandiose as to compete with any other great cathedrals and even outshine the beauty of the Palatine Chapel in Palermo.
The Dome and the Cloister are the most splendid and sumptuous building on the island, owing much of their charm to their wonderful position: they dominate the Conca d’Oro (the golden valley). After many centuries and in spite of the changes their structures underwent they have kept their beauty intact.
Monreale is surrounded by a magical and almost timeless halo. It boasts besides the renowned Norman buildings splendid Baroque churches and a maze of narrow lanes leading up to the centre, ideal for enjoyable strolls. As for the cuisine, the offer is very varied. In November the week of Sacred Music (repertory of sacred music played in the splendid setting of the Dome) can not be missed.
View Villas in Sicily - Tyrrhenian Coast >>
View Boutique hotels in Sicily - Tyrrhenian Coast >>
<< back to soloGuide to Sicily home
